When I was in Victoria a couple of weeks ago, I tried a new barbecue restaurant a friend had recommendedâ€”Big Moâ€™s BBQ at 1301 Sam Houston Drive. Itâ€™s in a former Pizza Hut not far from my old high school, though I canâ€™t say that I remember ever eating pizza there. The reality is that the pizza venue probably came and went since I graduated.
But back to Big Mo's. The friend not only recommended the restaurant, but also gave me samples of its smoked chicken and brisketâ€”both extra lean and thinly slicedâ€”which she had in her fridge. They were moist and delicious. I also tasted the green beans, which had a delightful, smoky flavor themselves.Â Iâ€™m not a fan of potato salad, so I passed on that, but my friend assured me it was good, too. After this preview, I stopped in at Big Moâ€™s a few days later and ordered a sliced brisket sandwich. It wasnâ€™t quite as lean as the brisket Iâ€™d tried earlier, but still mighty tasty. Next time, Iâ€™ll order the â€œExtra Lean Trimâ€ version.
While waiting for my order, I looked around the spic-and-span dining room and studied the menu. Turns out that Big Moâ€™s is a spin-off of a longtime area barbecue favorite called McMillanâ€™s Bar-B-Q & Catering, in Fannin, southwest of Victoria. Louis McMillan has, in effect, passed the torch to his daughter and son-in-law, Teri and David Moten, the owners of Big Moâ€™s. My judgment: The apple doesnâ€™t fall far from the tree.Â