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Written by Texas Highways

Comfort’s effect on me during my recent visit mirrored my thoughts on my first trip more than 20 years ago: This little Hill Country burg—about 50 miles northwest of San Antonio and 25 miles south of Fredericksburg—couldn’t have been named more appropriately, and its inherent sense of ease makes me think I could happily stay forever.


While gourmet coffee on Madison Avenue in New York City may sell for $24 a serving, you can sip a similar cup for $2 in the Eastland County town of Cisco at Waverly’s Coffee & Gifts, a cozy refuge in the center of this newly percolating community. “There are New York, Seattle, and Austin coffee shops. We are a Texas coffee shop,” says proprietor Sean Grose, who started a new life here in 2012 with his wife and daughter.

Cyclists pass through Pecan Grove, TX

The narrow Hill Country road drops toward a low bridge over a small creek. I coast on my bicycle, faster than I ever have before, scanning the pavement in front of me for potholes, tires humming, the wind blowing in my face. It feels exhilarating. I zip across the bridge and make it halfway up the short ascent before losing momentum.

A few ways to save money on the road like a pro.I try to think of myself as a wise and thrifty traveler. I stay in $50 motels instead of $100 ones because that means I can afford to stay out on the road twice as long. Besides, who needs all those pillows?

Ice Land at Moody Gardens

What: Ice Land: Rainforest Holiday

Where: Moody Gardens, 1 Hope Blvd., Galveston, TX

When: Through January 7, 2018

The holiday spirit blends with the tropics this year during Galveston’s annual chilly spectacle, Ice Land. Each fall, a team of expert ice carvers from Harbin, China, travels to the Texas island to spend more than a month creating a labyrinth of ice sculptures. This year’s Rainforest Holiday theme takes visitors through a colorful maze of equatorial delights, including playful monkeys, exotic birds, and flitting butterflies. Take a ride down a giant ice slide (it’s fun for kids and adults alike), while the 21-and-over set can sidle up to the Shivers Ice Bar for spirited refreshments. While it may be a challenge to have a true “White Christmas” in the Lone Star State, you can at least experience a cold one: The 28,000-square-foot space is kept at a bone-chilling 9 degrees Fahrenheit. Parkas are provided for the unprepared.

Photo: © Hogaboom Road, Inc.

Finding the boundary between Texas and Mexico isn’t as simple as locating the Rio Grande. As I discovered on my trip to Laredo, the border between these lands is more of a gradual blending, where the best parts of Texan and Mexican traditions mix and fill the area with history, food, and pride that’s truly unique.

Illustration by Kathryn Rathke

Hugo Ortega’s culinary touch is celebrated in his hometown of Houston and beyond—he’s the creative force behind a string of successful eateries in the city’s prosperous yet competitive restaurant scene.

Illustration by Eric Hanson

Around this time of year (and only this time of year), I start to miss the snow.

An exhibition of works by the late San Angelo artist Jimmy Don Cox

Amid the rugged terrain of the Concho Valley in West Texas, on what was once the edge of the wild frontier, the San Angelo Museum of Fine Arts stands as a vibrant cultural outpost. Overlooking the Concho River just south of downtown, its three-story modernist limestone building features a swooping metal roof whose shape brings to mind a saddle or a covered wagon. Within the 30,000-square-foot space, three galleries highlight the state’s rich artistic traditions, from Spanish Colonial-era paintings to contemporary Texas art.

Chef Mike Morphew, a Texas transplant from London who has cooked for the royal family, teaches classes at Le Petite Gourmet twice a month.

While I’m an avid cook and food writer, I’m not usually a fan of “gourmet” kitchen stores. In my experience, instead of tools for serious cooks, the merchandise tends to be heavy on cutesy gifts and novelties like pig-shaped sponges. So, as I approached the door to Le Petite Gourmet Shoppe, across from the historic courthouse in downtown La Grange, I braced myself for the aromas of candles and cinnamon-scented home spray. Boy, was I wrong.

The Wine Shoppe specializes in lesser-known wines from untraditional winemaking regions across the globe.

If you venture to Waco on any given day but Sunday, you’ll find Magnolia Market buzzing with starry-eyed devotees of Chip and Joanna Gaines’ HGTV home-improvement show, Fixer Upper. Waco has seen a steady uptick of visitors since 2015, when the Gaineses transformed two defunct grain silos into home and garden shops, complete with food trucks and a bakery. But blink and you could miss one of Waco’s more understated gems just 5 minutes away, a taupe building emblazoned with two simple words: Wine Shoppe.

Whether you crave Vietnamese pho, Texas barbecue, fried chicken, or a Neapolitan pizza, Conservatory steps up to the plate.

Arriving during the dinner rush at Conservatory Underground Beer Garden & Food Hall, a bustling eatery in downtown Houston, I walked past a wall of colorful pop-art portraits at the entryway, then proceeded down the beautifully ornate stairwell. The scene that greeted me looked like a party in full swing.

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