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Jerry Jeff Walker used to say that he doesn’t live in Texas, he lives in Austin. The opposite can be said of the Broken Spoke, where true honky-tonk Texas lives in the heart of nouveau hip Austin.


(Photos by Michael Amador)

It’s been 50 years, give or take, since a clean-shaven, copper-locked singer-songwriter from up past Waco first took the stage at John T. Floore Country Store, which was then—as now—just a little honky-tonk nestled among the live oaks west of San Antonio. No recording exists of that performance, but why would it? No one knew then that this slightly built guy with the nasally voice would become Willie Nelson, the icon, or that the relationship he built with Floore’s would still be going strong into the 21st Century.

Published in TRAVEL

For a list of the many dance halls and honky-tonks in Central Texas, visit Also check out “Big Bill’s Guide to Country Western Dancing and Dance Halls In and Around Austin” at Following are sites mentioned in the story. Call ahead for more information, including admission, music schedules, dance lessons, and special events.


For some 140 years, Twin Sisters Dance Hall near Blanco has hosted first-Saturday dances. You don't need to be a Twin Sisters  Hall Club member to scoot your boots here. (Photo by J. Griffis Smith)

It’s a pure Texas moment: I’m scooting my Justin ropers across the hardwood floor of Twin Sisters Dance Hall south of Blanco. The fiddle sings sweetly as Billy Garza and his band 40 Guns strike up a country classic: “Amarillo by mornin’, up from San Antone... .”

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