This is one of the old Czech barbecue joints where cold canned peaches are a favorite side dish. The menu has been updated by third-generation owners Nathan and Laura Novosad. Unusual cuts like lamb ribs and pork steaks are popular here. They’ve also brought house-made beans, cole slaw, cucumber salad, fresh-baked bread, and other pleasant (though untraditional) touches to the old meat market.
The old barbecue pit on Dowling in Houston that is now called Drexler’s has a remarkable pedigree. The pit was built by Harry Green in 1952. Green sold the place to one of his cooks, an old-timer named Tom Prevost. Prevost passed it on to his nephew, James Drexler (brother of former college and professional basketball star Clyde Drexler). Don’t miss the falling-off-the-bone East Texas ribs. James has been smoking ribs on the old pit on Dowling Street now for 27 years. Here’s his recipe for smoking pork ribs at home. Serves 2 to 4.