Coastal Therapy: Region of Relaxation

If you’re feeling stressed by life’s responsibilities (or simply need a getaway before the school year starts), here’s a simple prescription: Head to the Texas coast, which stretches some 400 miles from the border of Louisiana to the beginnings of Mexico. Depending on the prevailing winds, you can see and feel the Gulf of Mexico’s salty sea air far before you spy any water. So take a deep breath and let the relaxation begin. It’s cheaper and a lot more fun than therapy.

Redfish Riviera

One of the sleepiest corners of the Texas coast, the Calhoun County peninsula doesn’t see a lot of tourist traffic, despite its rich history. Here in 1519, after all, Spanish explorer Alonzo Alvarez de Pineda surveyed the seven surrounding bays, and in 1685, explorer René Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle established the first French fort in Texas.

But with a range of comfortable lodgings, a handful of knock-your-socks-off seafood restaurants, easy access to the bays for fishing and birding, and even an experimental art space, this area has a lot to offer.

Boaters can find much to enjoy in the surrounding bays and marshlands, including fishing for speckled trout and red drum, as well as studying the antics of herons, egrets, roseate spoonbills, hawks, curlews, and the many other species that migrate through or make their homes here. If you have your own boat (motorized or not), several public docks provide good points of entry into the water. (If not, call Austin Outdoor Gear & Guidance to ask about guided kayak tours of the marshlands; 512/473-2644.)

Art-lovers, don’t miss Port Lavaca’s eclectic Roseate Spoonbill Gallery (129 E. Main; 361/552-1930), where artist Dean Johnstone sells a mix of furniture, photographs, and coastal collectibles, along with dozens of historic shots of the area, some dating to 1930. Too, make the short trek to Seadrift, where German artist Dieter Erhard brings polymorphous touches of Gaudí and Hundertwasser to the fishing-village set with his studio and gallery space, Art Center Seadrift (601 Broadway; 361/785-5050).

For spot-on seafood, try Tropics, which serves Vietnamese-inspired seafood dishes, fried and grilled platters, and a praiseworthy chicken-fried steak (in Port Lavaca; 361/552-2900); Clark’s Seafood, where you can devour succulent seafood while watching the boats come into the harbor (in Port O’Connor; 361/983-2233); and Barkett’s Restaurant, which served its first satisfied customers in the 1950s (in Seadrift; 361/785-2441).

For more on Calhoun County, call the Port Lavaca/Calhoun County Chamber of Commerce, 361/552-2959; www.portlavacainfo.com.

The Island City

Considerably less sleepy but no less historical or charming, the city of Galveston dazzles beach-goers with a full plate of activities. Historical homes tours, award-winning theater, art galleries, and shopping? Yes, particularly in the East End and Strand National Historic Land-mark districts. Shelling, surfing, and suntanning? But of course; Galveston boasts more than 30 miles of beachfront. Miniature golf, bowling, and bungee-jumping? You betcha, plus skydiving, dolphin-watching cruises, and carriage rides. This island getaway has it all, plus dozens of festivals year round, including the raucous Mardi Gras festival in February and the Dickens on The Strand celebration each December. For details, call 888/GAL-ISLE; www.Galveston.com.

Port Aransas

Once a laid-back little village famous for its spectacular tarpon fishing and friendly residents, Port Aransas has successfully weathered a growth spurt in recent years to become one of the Texas coast’s most popular beach destinations. Still laid-back, and still renowned for its fishing and friendly folks, Port A now boasts fine restaurants (including the Venetian Hot Plate, a cozy eatery run by Italian husband-and-wife team Maurice and Linda Halioua, 361/749-7617; and Shells, which specializes in fresh seafood and vegetables, 361/749-7621), as well as several viewing spots for birders, a handful of tasteful shops, and a nascent nightlife scene.

All that said, Port Aransas’ biggest draw is still its serene beach, where you can walk, bike, and swim to your heart’s content. As the waves lap over the brown-sugar sand and begin their return trip out to sea, your cares and troubles are bound to dissipate, too. For more information, call the Port Aransas Chamber of Commerce, 800/45-COAST; www.portaransas.org.

Away to the Bay!

To the Initiated, especially those whose experience with Corpus Christi has been limited to its major freeways, the city doesn’t seem like much: industrial and busy, yes; tropical and serene, no. But explore the waterfront along Corpus Christi’s stunning Shoreline Boulevard, and your opinion will change. Here, a winding road follows the coastline along glittering Corpus Christi Bay, where surfers and parasailors (and bottlenose dolphins) ply the calm waters.

If you’re interested in history, art, or the natural sciences, Corpus Christi has you covered, too. Be sure to check out the U.S.S. Lexington Museum on the Bay, a floating naval museum housed in a famous 1943 aircraft carrier; the Texas State Aquarium (see page 16 of the print issue for details about this gem); and the Art Center of Corpus Christi, among other attractions.

For dining, try lunch or dinner at Frank’s Spaghetti House (2724 Leopard; 361/882-0075), which has been serving authentic Italian delicacies since 1947. Decorated with checkered tablecloths, artwork, and hanging wine bottles, Frank’s pleases patrons with hearty dishes like its popular lasagna, made fresh on the spot and so thick you’d be wise not to wear a white shirt.

Party All the Time/Alone at Last

Padre Island has a split personality. The northern half, the undeveloped Padre Island National Seashore, beckons anglers, beachcombers, sea kayakers, and nature-lovers of all kinds to revel in the island’s solitude. (See “Padre Island National Seashore,” May 2005.)

The southern half, the storied South Padre Island, comes by its party-all-the-time reputation honestly. Sprinkled with high-rise hotels, gleaming shops, extreme-sports outfitters, and sparkling beaches, this is the Texas beach that comes closest to the sand-and-surf stretches found in Miami and L.A. But even here, where a world-class water park (Schlitterbahn; 956/772-SURF) entertains gleeful patrons on uphill water coasters and the world’s largest surfing ride, you’ll find laid-back beach endeavors, too. Cast a line from one of the jetties, ride a horse in the surf, or learn more about the area’s endangered sea turtle population. For more on Padre Island National Seashore, call 361/949-8068; www.nps.gov/pais. For more on South Padre Island, call 800/SO-PADRE; www.sopadre.com.

See the full article in the August 2005 issue.

Order back issues