Great Grapes

Texas is the nation’s fifth leading wine-producing state, with more than 130 wineries and eight designated appellations of origin. Most vintners agree that it’s more difficult to grow grapes in Texas than in, say, California—but the rewards are worth the effort. (Photo by J. Griffis Smith)By Lori Moffatt

Grape growers in the Texas High Plains report success with many types of grapes, including varieties like Merlot and Dolcetto, but wine consultant Bobby Cox highlights five grapes as Texas superstars: Viognier, Vermentino, Muscat, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese—all Mediterranean-area grapes that tolerate the High Plains’ temperature swings and benefit from the region’s high altitude. “Most of our grapes are grown between 3,500 and 4,000 feet,” he says. “When you grow a grape at a high altitude, the wine has better flavor, aroma, and color. Think about it this way—the light has an easier time getting to our grapes.” Cox provides this guide to exploring these five varieties.

White

Viognier. “Viognier grapes make a floral, aromatic wine that pairs well with anything you might serve with a butter sauce. If you like Chardonnay, you’ll love Texas Viognier.”

Vermentino. “This is aromatic, too, but herbaceous instead of floral. I’d call it crisp, like a Sauvignon Blanc. Pair it with grilled fish, or anything that goes well with a slice of lemon.”

Muscat. “This is typically sweet, honeyed, extremely aromatic, and refreshing. I like to make a sabayon sauce with Muscat and serve it with berries or peaches.”

Red

Tempranillo. “Wines made with Tempranillo grapes are very dark in color, have low tannins, and have a flavor profile that suggests cherries or blackberries. They pair well with grilled meats.”

Sangiovese. “Wines made with pure Sangiovese are rich, medium-bodied, and assertive. Sangiovese grapes are often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes to make what we call ‘Super-Tuscan’ blends—excellent with tomato-based Italian foods.”

See the full article in the January 2010 issue.

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