Postcards: Things to see in the RGV

Help yourself to some of Texas' famous Rio Grande Valley citrus. (Photo by J. Griffis Smith)

By Eileen Mattei

I often tell friends and family who live in chillier climes that winter is the best time to be in the Rio Grande Valley. After years of exploring my adopted home, I’ve discovered 15 adventures that allow visitors to experience the authentic Valley—beyond the wonderful sunshine, iconic palm trees, and great Mexican bakeries.

  • Behind the Scenes. The 65-foot Double Sunshine cruises the Laguna Madre around the South Padre jetties, where dolphins abound, before heading down the restricted-access Brownsville Ship Channel. The boat provides front-row seats to observe the world’s largest “green” ship salvage yard; the towering, sea-going oil platforms; and the Shrimp Basin where about 100 net-draped shrimp trawlers are docked. The charter service American Diving starts this four-hour cruise Thursdays at 9 a.m., December-March, from Sea Ranch Marina Pier. Reservations required.
  • Citrus Collecting/Juicy Fruit. Pick your own red grapefruit at Thompson’s Rio Pride Orchards in Weslaco, November-March, Monday-Friday. This longstanding, family-operated orchard is one of the few that lets you pick your own. Call ahead for a time, and to tour Donald Thompson’s exotic citrus tree collection, which includes pomelos and Mandarin limes. Or, get just-picked oranges and famous Rio Red grapefruit to go. Rio Pride.
  • Iwo Jima Monument. The original model for the Arlington Cemetery memorial dominates the skyline at the Marine Military Academy, near Valley International Airport in Harlingen. Visit the Iwo Jima Memorial and Museum before taking a free tour of the campus. Watch cadets parade to lunch and join them in the mess hall ($10). 320 Iwo Jima Blvd., Harlingen. Call 956/423-6006, ext. 235, to arrange the MMA tour.
  • Bygone Burials. Explore Brownsville’s Old City Cemetery on a guided walking tour of a New Orleans-style graveyard. The above-ground crypts and weathered headstones reflect more than 150 years of border life. Brownsville Historical Association docents lead the tour ($5 for members, $7 for non-members) Friday mornings at 10; reservations required. Call the Brownsville Heritage Complex at 956/541-5560. Or tour yourself:  The Old City Cemetery Center, 600 E. Jackson (corner of 6th and Monroe), has maps. Tuesday-Saturday, 10-4.
  • Old Salts. Looking like a field of snow, the La Sal del Rey salt lake, 28 miles northeast of McAllen, could be a mirage under the bright sun with exotic birds in the distance. Your feet crunch on the lake’s dried salt, leaving footprints that rapidly fill with brine. Go four miles east of US 281 on Texas 186 and park at the US Fish & Wildlife Service kiosk on the north side of the road. Hike one mile on a gravel path to the lake. Call 956/784-7521.
  • Christmas Sights. Nighttime Christmas parades continue a Valley tradition. McAllen’s parade goes up Main Street to Archer Park on December 4 at 7 p.m. The next night brings the Christmas Posada—a procession of Mary, Joseph, and a donkey looking for room at an inn. Anyone can join the choir accompanying the posada. Archer Park stages free entertainment both nights. Call 877/622-5536.
  • River Watch. Slip through a wide gap in the border wall in Mission (really, it’s legal here) and watch the Rio Grande flow past at the Riverside Club. This restaurant, famous for its pork tenderloin sandwiches, sits right on the river bank and offers pontoon boat cruises on the international waterway. 214 E. Chimney Road, Mission; 956/581-1033.

More Rio Grande adventures in the November 2009 issue, including the Valley Nature Center, the new Resaca de la Palma State Park, murals, custom bookmakers, and islands of creatures at the zoo.


From the November 2009 issue.

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