6. Davis Mountains State Park/Fort Davis National Historic Site
A four-and-a-half-mile trail connects Davis Mountains State Park
and Fort Davis National Historic Site, home to the sprawling ruins of a
late 1800s military outpost. This trip takes you through beautiful
scenery and back in time. From the park’s interpretive center, wind up a
draw to a ridge with 360-degree views of Texas’ most extensive mountain
range. After you’ve regained your composure, trace the ridge’s edge to
the end of Skyline Drive. (You can start here for a mile-and-a-half
hike.) Three-tenths of a mile after crossing from state park to national
park, two routes lead to the fort. I prefer the North Ridge route,
which snakes through rocks and hoodoo formations, often resembling a
stone staircase more than a trail, with great views of the fort most of
the way.
If you can talk some of your party into skipping the hike, have
them pick you up at Fort Davis. Hiking back is rewarding, too.
Davis Mountains State Park, 432/426-3337; www.tpwd.state.tx.us.
Fort Davis Natl. Historic Site, 432/426-3224; www.nps.gov/foda.
7. Lost Maples State Natural Area
Along the gorgeously clear Sabinal River, the park’s East Trail follows a canyon flanked by a large stand of uncommon Uvalde Bigtooth Maples, which give this park its name. Huge crowds come to observe the spectacular changing of the leaf colors in fall, but this hike is great any time. Even on busy days, leave the crowds behind by continuing up a steep climb to a windswept, rocky plateau populated by juniper and cactus. The trail hugs the edge of the ridge, where breathtaking views are as beautiful as the maples, then descends sharply to shady Can Creek, which tempts you with a swimming hole and waterfalls. If you make it this far, you’re rewarded with another, less-crowded stand of maples. Ah, solitude.
Lost Maples State Natural Area, 830/966-3413; www.tpwd.state.tx.us.
8. Inks Lake State Park
A series of trails loop through a quiet corner of this popular park on Inks Lake. I enjoy combining them for a hike just under five miles that encompasses an astonishing variety of scenery. Grab a color-coded trail map at the entrance, park across from the amphitheater, and head out on the Green Route. Keep to the left as the trail forks, and you’ll walk beneath cedar and pecan canopies, enjoy panoramic views of the countryside, wind between multihued boulders draped with mosses, and clamber over swaths of granite with tiny yellow flowers growing in the cracks. (Avoid walking on exposed rock, as your feet damage fragile plant life growing on the granite.) This hike also provides access to thick cedar breaks, cattail-filled streambeds, the rocky lakeshore,
and a stand of tall trees and lush grasses. Talk about variety!
Inks Lake State Park, 512/793-2223; www.tpwd.state.tx.us.
9. Lake Somerville State Park
The Lake Somerville State Park Trailway, a sandy, easy-on-the-boots trail, covers 13 miles between the Birch Creek and Nails Creek sections of Lake Somerville State Park, which lie on opposite shores of Lake Somerville. Grass carpets the gently rolling terrain, which is lightly shaded by stands of yaupon, oak, and hickory. You can use the covered shelters spaced at intervals along the trail to rest and enjoy a snack. You’ll bisect a sprawling meadow, cross Yegua Creek, and skirt Flag Pond, a water impoundment in a natural depression in the creek’s watershed. If you’re a birder, you’ll want to slip into a spacious bird blind here, where you might spy resident waterfowl like great blue herons, canvasbacks, mallards, and wood ducks. The pavilion at Nails Creek is a good place to meet your ride if you don’t camp along the route. The start and finish points are about a 30-minute drive apart.
Lake Somerville State Park, 979/535-7763; www.tpwd.state.tx.us.
10. Caprock Canyons State Park
Long ago in what we now call the Panhandle Plains, streams eroded the Caprock to create dramatic canyons and peaks of red sandstone and siltstone. Almost 90 miles of trails in Caprock Canyons State Park explore this unusual landscape; some trails rise as high as 3,600 feet along the cliffs. For intermediate hikers, a great choice is Upper Canyon Trail, a rugged, six-and-a-half-mile route that leaves from the South Prong Tent Camping area. Red-gold sand and multicolored rocks, a wide blue sky, and multiple creek crossings keep the route interesting. Look for signs of aoudad sheep, deer, bobcats, foxes, and nearly 200 species of birds.
Caprock Canyons State Park, 806/455-1492; www.tpwd.state.tx.us.
Safe. Sound. Savvy.
A few simple rules will help you and future hikers have a good experience. Always stay on established trails; hiking “off road” damages the environment, and hazards are harder to spot (and you might get lost). Yield to horses and uphill travelers. Do not approach or disturb wildlife, and never feed wild animals. Keep dogs on a leash where required, and always scoop the poop. Pack out all other trash, too.
Before hitting the trail, be sure you’re physically up to it. Wear sturdy, comfortable, and broken-in shoes or boots. Carry adequate water, food, a first-aid kit, map, compass, flashlight, and matches or other fire-starter.
Heatstroke is a serious and common problem in Texas. Avoid open hikes in the heat of a summer day and drink, drink, drink (water, that is). Wear sunscreen and a hat. In many areas, you’ll also need insect repellent.
Pay attention to your surroundings at all times, and look for landmarks. If you take a wrong turn, go back to where you are sure about the trail. Wilderness experts recommend that you stay put and wait for help, but after 72 hours of waiting, try to find your own way out (using that map and compass in your pack).
Always check weather reports, and avoid hiking when rain or thunderstorms are forecast. Before you go, check with park officials regarding current conditions, hours, fees, and regulations.
From the May 2007 issue.
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